Utah’s winter getting you down? Dreaming about a tropical getaway in Hawaii, the Caribbean, or Southern California to warm your bones but time and money don’t allow? Well stop dreaming because we have the perfect exotic winter destination just a few hours drive from home…Thermopolis, Wyoming!
Now I know what you are thinking; Wyoming in winter! Are you crazy? You’ll get killed in a 50 car pile up on I-80 (if it isn’t closed by a blizzard)! That may be true, but if you are daring enough to run the gauntlet of snow blown roads that is the Wyoming State Highway system you will be greatly rewarded. Thermopolis is located in the heart of Wyoming in the Big Horn Basin and is home to “The Big Spring,” the world’s largest mineral hot spring in Hot Springs State Park. In fact, the name Thermopolis means “Hot City” in Greek—talk about great marketing.
Getting There
Thermopolis is 360 miles from Salt Lake City, about a five and half hour drive. Thermopolis—and the rest of Wyoming—is part of the Morrison Formation so it contains a lot of Jurassic geology and biology, making it a fascinating place to explore. Despite what you think of driving in Wyoming in the winter, the Big Horn Basin gets very little precipitation or snowfall (we went in January), however the roads can be treacherous and some highways may be closed so always check the road conditions before you go. If you watch the weather and plan appropriately, the drive alone makes the trip well worth it. If the weather is bad you can always cancel and reschedule.
While it rarely snows in this part of Wyoming, it does get a lot of wind which means snow is constantly being blown from one location to another. Due to this, we do not recommend driving past Rock Springs after dark. If you get a late start then stay the night in Rock Springs and head out early the next morning. Besides, there are many wonderful sights along the way that you will want to see in the daylight.
Sacajawea Gravesite
Our first recommended stop after Rock Springs is the grave site of Sacajawea.
Sitting on the Wind River Indian Reservation right outside of Fort Washakie, Wyoming is the Sacajawea Cemetery—the purported final resting place of Sacajawea. This fascinating cemetery contains the graves of hundreds of Native Americans. Colorful grave markers scatter the neglected, windblown hillside that is still utilized for local burials, which is evident from the mounds of dirt at the most recent burial sites.
Although there is controversy as to whether the woman buried here is actually Sacajawea, the statue at the cemetery and the grave markers for Sacajawea, her son Jean Baptiste, and her adopted son Bazil, pay homage to one of the greatest women in American history. Born near Salmon, Idaho, Sacajawea was kidnapped by a band of Hidatsa Indians when she was twelve years old and taken to the Mandan village in North Dakota. At the age of thirteen, she was sold into a nonconsensual marriage with her husband, Charbonneau. She was pregnant with her first son Jean Baptise when the Corps of Discovery led by Lewis and Clark hired Charboneau as a guide because his wife spoke Shoshone and they would need the help of the Shoshone tribe to get horses to make the journey to the Pacific.
Sacajawea proved to be of great value to the expedition. One of the most moving stories of American history occurred in August of 1805 as the Corps of Discovery crossed the Continental Divide at Lemhi Pass, Idaho. It was late in the season and the starving expedition desperately needed horses which could only be obtained from the local Indians. As they crossed the pass, they ran into a group of Indian warriors whose disposition and intentions were unknown to Lewis and Clark. As the warriors approached, Sacajawea broke from the group and ran to the Chief and embraced him, having recognized him as her brother Cameahwait who she hadn’t seen since her kidnapping. As a result of her relationship, the Corps of Discovery obtained their desperately needed horses and the rest is history. The white man went on to steal all the Native American lands, including the Big Spring in Thermopolis. Isn’t history great?
Sacajawea was one of the few women in American history who didn’t just follow the men into history, but rather led them there. She accomplished all this as a sixteen-year-old teen mom who carried her child in a pappose on her back across the continent. I was so inspired by the woman who led the exploration that eventually opened up the west that I even let Melinda drive a little.
Wind River Canyon
Leaving Fort Washakie, we crossed the Continental Divide and descended into the beautiful snow-covered Red Rock Canyon and then drove past the frozen reservoir at Boysen State Park with dozens of ice fisherman dotting the landscape. Just past Boysen State Park we entered into one of the most beautiful drives in Wyoming—Wind River Canyon. This canyon was carved by the Wind River (which becomes the Big Horn River) over millennium and its snow covered mountain tops and frozen waterfalls make for fantastic scenery. The road passes through a series of tunnels and steep mountains as it follows the meandering river below.
Thermopolis Lodging
Once through the Wind River Canyon, we entered the Big Horn Valley and Thermopolis! There are multiple hotels in the city but the best hotels are the Best Western Plus Plaza Hotel and the Elk Antler Inn. The Best Western is located inside of Hot Springs State Park and is within walking distance of the hot springs. The Best Western is a historical building and is on the National Register of Historic Sites. Your stay includes a delicious full breakfast and a mineral hot spring hot tub for guests to enjoy. The Best Western is the most expensive option in town but the Elk Antler Inn offers a clean, fun place to stay for the more budget conscious traveler. The Days Inn also has a hotel located in the State Park but is a bit dated compared to the newly remodeled Best Western.
Hot Springs State Park
Once checked into our room, we began to explore all the things to do in Thermopolis. We started with a stroll through the Big Spring in Hot Springs State Park. The steam rising off the hot springs into the crisp winter air created a dream-like landscape and the Rainbow Terraces, created by the dissolved minerals from the water as it makes its way to the Big Horn River below, are incredible. The snow and ice in the winter enhance the terrace walls to create extraordinary views. As you stroll through the park, make sure to take a walk across the swinging bridge to view the springs from the other side of the river. The beautiful dark blue waters of the Big Horn River pop against the rainbow terraces covered in ice and snow and it is truly an unforgettable site.
Above the hot springs is the entrance to the buffalo corrals, home to Wyoming’s state-owned bison herd. From these hills above the hot springs we had incredible views of the town of Thermopolis and the bison herd. We also ran into a prehistoric automobile graveyard rusting in the canyon, meeting their final demise.
Hot Springs State Park has three bath houses in which guests may soak and relax in the hot mineral waters. The State Bath House, like the State Park, is absolutely free to enter. The bath house includes both indoor and outdoor pools and a shower facility and it is geared more toward adults and seniors than for children. Be aware that it does have a 20 minute limit due to the 104 degree water temperature, but if you just want to experience the hot springs then the state bath house is the place to do it.
The two other bath houses, Star Plunge and Hellie’s Tepee Pools, are privately owned and charge an entrance fee but are far more family friendly with multiple pools, slides, and hot tubs. The Star Plunge also has a vapor cave (which is like a steam room) fed from the hot mineral waters and is definitely a unique room to experience. Admission into these bath houses is good for the whole day and you may come and go as you please. Both bath houses remain open until 9 p.m.
Wyoming Dinosaur Center
Wyoming—along with Colorado, parts of Montana, New Mexico, the Dakotas, and Utah—is located in the Morrison Formation, a distinct sequence of Jurassic sedimentary rock which has been the most productive source for dinosaur fossils in North America. The Big Horn Valley is a treasure trove for dinosaur fossils which is why Thermopolis is home to the Wyoming Dinosaur Center, housed in this rather nondescript building. Don’t let the exterior fool you, this museum is awesome!
We have been to the Smithsonian, the New York Natural History Museum, and many dinosaur museums and dig sites in Utah and this little museum in Thermopolis is by far our favorite! Expect to spend an hour to an hour and a half exploring this museum filled with some of the largest dinosaurs we have seen, many of which are actual fossils discovered in nearby dig sites.
Not only were the dinosaur bones exciting, but the three dimensional fossils were incredibly detailed and one could easily follow the evolution of life over hundreds of millions of years. This museum will be enjoyed by both children and adults alike and should not be missed!
Shopping
Thermopolis is a small town and does not have a plethora of shopping, but what they do have is a lot of fun. The biggest shop downtown was the Carhartt store, which is like the hardware store of men’s clothing, but the true gem for shopping was Merlin’s Hide Out!
Merlin’s Hide Out is a tannery specializing in buffalo and fur products and became “Hollywood famous,” producing buffalo coats for Kurt Russell in “The Hateful Eight.” Arnold Schwarzenegger even flew to Thermopolis just to pick up his custom made coat!
This is truly a shopping experience you will not forget. The owners were so friendly and encouraged trying on the various coats and hats—they even have a Buffalo beard for the gentlemen to try on. We were so taken by the beauty of the furs that I broke down and bought a beaver hat for Melinda that looked great on her. She was so excited with her purchase and I earned the right to look at my wife and say, “Nice beaver!” without the fear of being slapped.
Dining
Dining options in Thermopolis include fast food, pizza, and sit down dining. Our favorite eatery was the One Eyed Buffalo on Main Street; Melinda ordered the Tomato and Basil Chicken and I had the Seafood Mac and Cheese.
The Safari Club in the Days Inn was another unique dining facility with dozens of exotic taxidermy animals lining the walls and we were even joined by some local wildlife as we ate. Although it was a nice dining experience, the food was not as exciting as the setting. We have heard that the Black Bear Café also has good dining, but unfortunately it was closed when we attempted to stop by.
Legend Rock
Twenty-one miles west of Thermopolis on Highway 120 lies Legend Rock Petroglyph Site which includes 92 rock panels with 283 glyphs dating back 10,000 years. The site is open from May to September, but can be accessed in the winter if road conditions permit. To do so, the key to the site must be obtained from the State Hot Springs Bath House or Chamber of Commerce. Unfortunately, we didn’t know this and were not able to access the site during our visit.
Cody
During our trip to Thermopolis we planned a one day side trip to Cody, Wyoming. This unique western town was founded by the legendary Buffalo Bill Cody and still houses the grand hotel he built and named for his youngest daughter, The Irma. Cody is 84 miles from Thermopolis and takes an hour and a half to get to. On our trip we saw herds of Pronghorn Antelope and Mule deer all along the route, this is the same highway that takes you to the turn off to Legend Rock as well.
Buffalo Bill Center
Cody is a wonderful town to explore but, without a doubt, the Buffalo Bill Center of the West is a must-see if you’re in the area. Started as a museum dedicated to the life of Buffalo Bill, the center has grown into a complex of five museums including the Buffalo Bill Museum, the Plains Indian Museum, the Whitney Western Art Museum, and the Cody Firearms Museum which houses one of the largest collection of firearms in the United States!
The Buffalo Bill Center is one of the nation’s premier museums and well worth the trip from Thermopolis. The museum is extensive and a ticket allows two days entrance into the facility. Although we highly recommend the museum for adults, it may be a bit boring for children and teens. Recognizing this, the center have provides a game room for children and teens so mom and dad can continue to browse the impressive collection. Wander at your leisure, some of us may need more time than others to explore the entire collection.
The museum does have a reasonably priced café and the lady at the counter treated us like royalty. Also on site is a raptor rescue facility that operates daily, so take the chance to meet the raptors up close.
Conclusion
We can’t say enough about how much we enjoyed Thermopolis and Cody, Wyoming. This is a fantastic winter getaway for an extended weekend, suitable for both a family trip or a couples retreat!
The trip to Wyoming is filled with everything you think of when you think of Wyoming; oil fields, wildlife, stunning mountain views, and miles of sage covered nothingness and blowing snow, but Thermopolis is so much more. It is a wonderful playground of natural beauty, hot springs, and history.
We can’t think of a warmer community than Thermopolis, Wyoming! We encourage you to get out and explore this piece of the west, and don’t forget:
Life in Utah is a Wanderful life!
