I remember as a child feeling as if I must have won the Golden Ticket in Roald Dahl’s “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory” when my parents told me we were going to Big Rock Candy Mountain on our way to California. I vividly recall my excitement as I looked wide-eyed at this beautiful majestic mountain of caramel and fudge as our old white station wagon that we fondly called Betsy pulled into the parking lot of the Big Rock Candy Mountain Resort. With all of the gusto of Augustus Gloop, myself and my siblings greedily piled out of the car and charged the confectionary mountain filling our mouths with its sweet toffee soil. Our eyes grew large as we realized we had been tricked! Dad realizing that if he didn’t do something quick he would have a Mutiny on the Betsy quickly shuffled his mud faced children into the store and purchased a bag of candy rocks for each child telling us that only the rocks that were mined from inside the mountain were edible keeping the allure of this magical mountain alive in my childhood memory.
I have since made multiple visits to Marysvale and Big Rock Candy Mountain and although dad has since passed on I realize that he was right; this mountain is magical! The mountain itself was named for a popular song written by Harry McClintock in 1928 because it so beautifully represented a mountain of candy. I now take my children to explore the enchanted landscapes hidden deep inside this mythical mountain. The best way to explore this area is via Off-Road Vehicles (ORV) along the world famous Paiute Trail recognized by almost every off-road magazine as the top trail system in the nation. Although many of the destinations in the area are accessible by car, not getting on the trail and in to the back country would be like just visiting the Willie Wonka gift shop while missing the entire tour of the chocolate factory. ATV/UTV rentals are readily available in town if you don’t own one and the experience is well worth the money. I guarantee that anyone who explores this area from an ORV will feel like they have truly won the Golden Ticket!
Things to Do
Paiute Trail System
The most important reason for going from one place to another is to see what’s in between, and they took great pleasure in doing just that.
There are so many awesome places to visit in and around Marysvale, but the greatest part of the trip is not the destinations but the road in between! With over 2000 miles of trails, the Paiute Trail System is one of the largest and most beautiful trails anywhere in the world, and it is right here in Utah and the best parts of the trail system are centered around Marysvale. Due to the high mountain passes. the full trail is only open in the summer but there are plenty of accessible points from Memorial Day to Labor Day and our family has made the trip in both Spring and Fall.
Springtime on the Paiute brings the most stunning shades of greens and wildflowers along with rushing streams tamed only by the plethora of beaver dams which slow the wild winter runoff into beautiful ponds all along the trail. The winter runoff makes for majestic waterfalls and mountain springs and there are many fun stream crossings all along the trail.
Fall on the Paiute brings beautiful fall foilage and mountain views that are stunning! The rivers are less wild but the water isn’t as cold so stop and swim in any of the mountain lakes along the trail.
Miner’s Park
This outdoor historical park extends from the entrance to Bullion Canyon along The Canyon of Gold Auto Route and this can be explored by either ORV or auto. There are brochures at the entrance to the canyon that lists each of the stops and describes the historical significance of each. Mining in this area dates back to the Spanish explorers. Autos may go as far as the Miner’s Park which has a restored miner’s cabin and a trail where you can walk and explore the various mining equipment that was used to mine in this area. Old historical mines and buildings can be explored and there are picnic tables and restroom which makes this a good stopping point for lunch.
Bullion Falls
Bullion Falls is an incredibly beautiful waterfall that can be accessed from Miner’s Park. The trail into the falls is about a 2 mile hike and is fairly strenuous if you don’t hike much. If you have an ATV/UTV the trail is open to ORVs however the trail is narrow in many places and parking is very limited. Be courteous and wait for other groups to return before heading up the trail as you cannot pass in many places. Either way the falls are very impressive (especially in the spring) and are well worth the hike.
Silver King Mine
The Silver King Mine is located 12 miles northwest of Marysvale on Forest Road FR113. The mine was established in 1890 and was the family home of Brigham Darger and his wife Patsy throughout the 1890’s. The mine has a walking trail with 8 interpretive sites that help understand how a mining family survived in these high mountains in the 1890’s.
Fremont Indian State Park and Museum
Located just off I-70 and accessible via the Paiute Trail, Fremont Indian State Park and Museum is the site of the largest known Fremont Indian village (400-1300 AD) and preserves the artifacts, petroglyphs and pictographs of this great culture. The site is made up of multiple trails that lead to dozens of rock art panels. The museum houses artifacts discovered at the site as well as a pit house and granary that demonstrate how these people lived. The museum provides atlatl’s (basically a long arrow that is launched with a wooden plank) and a range where you can tune your hunting skills to see if you could survive as a Fremont Indian a thousand years ago.
The museum and park are right off I-70 and is easily accessible by car, however, many of the ORV trails lead to the museum as well and the park is very ORV friendly with often dozens of ORV’s in the parking lot. This is a really fun day ride from Marysvale and when grouped with the Silver King Mine makes for a perfect day of riding!
Max Reid Trail= 50″ ORVs only
Just past the Silver King Mine on your way to Fremont Indian State Park right off of FR113 is the entrance to the Max Reid Trail. This trail is limited to 50” ORVs but as one local described it, you feel like you are riding through Sherwood Forest. This trail weaves through the trails, across streams, and open meadows and is one of our favorite ORV trails. Although not extremely technical it does have a few challenging spots but it is a beautiful ride and the trail passes some of the most beautiful scenery on the Paiute before dropping down into the back side of the state park.
Big Rock Candy Mountain Resort & Trail #74
On the ride back from Fremont Indian State Park make sure to explore Trail #74 which brings you on the backside of Big Rock Candy Mountain and down to the resort and Hoover’s. This section of the trail is gorgeous with wild running rivers, beaver dams, rock formations and finally Big Rock Candy Mountain. There are several adventure companies at Big Rock Candy Mountain Resort which include Rafting the Sevier River, ziplining, and rock climbing.
Mystic Hot Springs
For a unique destination on the trail or off take your swimming suit to the small town of Monroe and experience Mystic Hot Springs. This hippie style commune hosts some very unique hot springs which make for a nice point to get off the trail and relax a bit. The hot springs themselves are amazing although the facility is truly hippie! We spent a night here at the campground which rents cabins and buses inspired by Woodstock and clearly decorated by someone utilizing an LSD hallucinogen. It looked cute on the website but both the facilities and the guests appeared to be Woodstock left-overs and we do not recommend camping here. However, if you want some great photographs and a nice soak this site makes a fantastic stopover as you explore the area.
Fish, Swim or Play in a High Mountain Lake
The Paiute Trail abounds with fresh high mountain lakes so if you enjoy fishing or just cooling off on a hot day these pristine lakes are beautiful and make a great stop for a lunch break while riding the trail. Make sure to bring your license and fishing pole as you wander about the Paiute.
Explore the History of the Hills
The hills along the trail are filled with history of mining and homesteaders and there is something interesting to explore around almost every bend. Take time to stop and explore as many of the structures still stand many still include the occupant’s possessions who seemingly walked away leaving these sites trapped in time.
Where to Stay
Moore’s Old Pine Inn
For a couples weekend Moore’s Old Pine Inn is absolutely the place to stay. The hotel is the oldest operational hotel in Utah and has a rich history. The rooms in the original building are charming with fun themes. Behind the original building the owner has built an addition which looks like an old western town with old west themed rooms which are incredibly fun for a couples stay. We stayed in the Sherriff’s Office and handcuffs may or may not have been used! The property is beautiful with a pavilion, grills, horeshoes, laundry and lots of parking for your ORVs. The breakfast is served in the old hotel and is delicious. The trails are accessible directly from the hotel and Moore’s also rents ORVs and you can book a room and a machine at the same time
Campgrounds & Motels
Marysvale is a camping haven with multiple campgrounds and motels all of which cater to ORVs.
Hoover’s River Resort
Hoover’s River Resort has cabins and a campground available.
Big Rock Candy Mountain Resort
Big Rock Candy Mountain Resort has both rooms and a campground available.
Where to Eat
Hoover’s River Resort
Hoover’s River Resort is the landmark eatery in the Marysvale area and has fantastic food and environment. The fun part of Hoover’s is that you can ride directly off the trail and have a fantastic meal and then continue to explore the area as well as to eat in a beautiful setting.
Big Rock Candy Mountain Resort
The restaurant at Big Rock Candy Mountain Resort has a good menu selection and the food was delicious after a day on the trail and also has an incredible setting at the base of Big Rock Candy Mountain.
Getting There
Marysvale is 3 hours south of Salt Lake City on Hwy 89 just south of I-70.
Conclusion
Marysvale and Big Rock Candy Mountain is truly one of our favorite places in Utah. Whether you are going as a family or a romantic getaway, Marysvale has something for everyone. Although almost all of the areas we reviewed are accessible via automobile, to truly appreciate this area we highly recommend an ORV as this is one of the top places in the world for off-road trails and once you go you will know why. This truly is a magical place and every one should follow the lyrics of the tune for which it was named:
And the jungle fire was burning,
Down the track came a hobo hiking,
And he said, “Boys, I’m not turning
I’m headed for a land that’s far away
Besides the crystal fountains
So come with me, we’ll go and see
The Big Rock Candy Mountains
