The comedian George Carlin reportedly stated, “Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away.” Monument Valley is one of those life affirming moments that take your breath away. Perhaps the most notable scenic icon of the American west, Monument Valley is one of the most picturesque places in the entire world! Every American should take a trip to this iconic location and every Utahn should make the pilgrimage to this most sacred location.
Located on the Utah/Arizona border this area is a painter and photographer’s dream. We spent the three-day President’s Day holiday exploring this corner of Utah based out of a cute little Bed and Breakfast in Monticello, Utah called the Grist Mill Bed and Breakfast. Located high on the Colorado Plateau we experienced both beautiful desert scenery and mountain blizzards on the same day but we loved this trip! Monument Valley is neither a state or national monument but rather a Navajo Tribal Park. The native American culture in this area is on full display with not only the modern Navajo Tribal lands in Monument Valley but the equally impressive ancient Puebloan ruins from 1200-1400 AD located at Hovenweep National Monument and Edge of the Cedars State Park.
Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the moments that take our breath away.
Day 1- Getting There
We left early on a Friday afternoon to travel the 4 and ½ hours from Salt Lake City to our base camp in Monticello, Utah. The scenery going through Price and Moab is amazing with red rock canyons and plateaus around every turn. The drive can be tricky during the winter so watch the weather carefully before leaving.
Day 2- Monticello-Monument Valley-Monticello
We got an early start on our first day with a wonderful breakfast at our B & B before leaving for our 100 mile drive to Monument Valley. Although cold and snowy in Monticello, the roads and snow cleared as we dropped through Blanding and started where Highway 191/163 becomes the Trail of the Ancients Scenic Byway. We experienced awesome views of this ancient ancestral lands as the road decended into the small historical pioneer town of Bluff, Utah.
Fort Bluff
Although Bluff was not a planned stop on our itinerary, some of the most interesting places we find are the ones we just drive through and decide to stop and explore. Bluff was one of these places! Founded by Mormon pioneers who formed the Hole in the Rock expedition you definitely want to stop and explore Fort Bluff. Fort Bluff has been recreated to show what pioneer life was like for the early pioneer settlers of this rough, unforgiving land and the film that describe the Hole in the Rock expedition is fascinating. The cost to tour the fort is free (although donations that help preserve these historical jewels are appreciated and needed) and plan to spend about an hour exploring this fantastic outdoor museum.
Mexican Hat
Mexican Hat/Valley of the Gods
Continuing along the Trail of the Ancients Scenic Byway we dropped down past the Valley of the Gods which is an area similar to Monument Valley for it’s beauty and rock formations however, in the wet winter conditions we did not attempt to explore this area even with four wheel drive. We soon came upon the small but very interesting town of Mexican Hat named for the rock formation which looks like (you guessed it) a Mexican Hat.
At this point the highway towards Monument Valley becomes the Monument Valley to Bluff Scenic Byway made most famous by the movie Forrest Gump as he runs out of Monument Valley and the scenery here is INCREDIBLE! You will want to stop and take some pictures recreating the infamous running scene from Forest Gump to post to your social media!
Monument Valley
Crossing the Arizona border you are surrounded by the most beautiful features of nature as you enter the Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. After paying your fee, continue to the visitor center for one of the most amazing views of the valley. After purchasing our native American artwork we returned to our vehicle for a drive through the park. Caution the roads through the park are not paved and can be very muddy during winter conditions. It was passable by standard cars but be prepared to get muddy. The beauty of this land is breathtaking and there were multiple stops for photo opportunities. This is tribal land and Navajo’s live on this land. We were fortunate to meet several young Navajo’s riding their horses who visited with us and told us of the love they had for this sacred place. The photographs we took from the overlooks appeared to be surreal paintings crafted by the hand of God rather than merely a pixilated image. Even the worst photographer will look like a professional among these stunning vistas.
There is lodging available at the park if you want an overnight stay but we had more amazing vistas yet to see. Leaving the park we went to Gouldings Trading Post Museum for a Navajo Taco (what else) and to see the John Wayne’s cabin from one of the many movies he filmed at Monument Valley taking in the views from of the valley in the distance.
Goosenecks State Park
After filling up on a Navajo Taco we headed back towards Mexican Hat and turned back on to Highway 261 continuing our trip on the Trail of the Ancients Scenic Byway. Leaving the highway we drove just a few miles down a narrow paved road to enter Goosenecks State Park. Although really just a scenic overlook the San Juan River below has carved out a series of three horseshoe bends creating a canyon a thousand of feet deep. It is well worth the few minute detour to experience one of the most beautiful and less known of our great state parks.
Moki Dugway
Continuing on the Trail of the Ancients Scenic Byway, Highway 261 turns into one of the most notorious and awe inspiring routes in the entire state as you enter Moki Dugway. Moki Dugway is not for the faint of heart. This three mile stretch of gravel road is a series of switchbacks that climbs 1,200 feet from the desert valley below to the top of Cedar Mesa. Although safe when driven slowly drivers beware of oncoming traffic on this narrow road since both drivers will be pre-occupied with the amazing views as the road drops off hundreds of feet straight down. As we climbed the route we went from clear skies to light snow the higher we got and by the time we reached the top of Moki Dugway we ran into a pretty hefty snowfall. By this point we headed back to Monticello for dinner and fun at the B&B.
Where to Stay
Since this was a couples retreat, we opted to stay at the Grist Mill Inn Bed and Breakfast in Monticello for our trip to Southeast, Utah. As its name implies, the B&B was converted from on old Grist Mill and the remnants of the mill are delightfully incorporated into the decor and architecture of the building. As this is off season in Monticello, the room rates were phenomenal and the breakfast was fantastic. After a day of exploring, our native American heritage, it was nice to head back to this fun space and have our own little Pow Wow! We highly recommend the Grist Mill B&B and our time there as a couple will not soon be forgotten.
Oh baby, the scenery isn’t the only thing here that takes my breath away!
If he tries to touch me one more time I’ll pour this hot chocolate on his crotch!
Day 3- Edge of the Cedars and Hovenweep
Edge of the Cedars State Park Museum
After a hot breakfast at the B&B, we were back on the snowy Trail of the Ancients Scenic Byway and on our way to Edge of the Cedars State Park Museum. This small state park hidden in a subdivision in Blanding, Utah was a fascinating museum housing the largest collection of Anasazi pottery in the Southwest and an authentic Puebloan village behind the museum. You can explore how the ancient Puebloan’s lived and explore an authentic pit house. The museum contained ancient tools, clothing and weapons used in the daily lives of these ancient people. It took about an hour to an hour and a half to explore this museum but was well worth the time to better understand the daily lives of Utah’s first residents.
Hovenweep
Without a doubt Hovenweep National Monument is one of the crown jewels of Utah archeology! Hovenweep is located about an hour southeast of Blanding on the Colorado border and although the road is paved it was probably last paved by the Puebloans themselves in 1200 AD. However, do not let this deter you as the monument is well worth the drive. Hovenweep is actually made up of six prehistoric villages built between 1200 and 1300 AD and once housed over 2,500 people. These structures include a series of towers and stone structures strewn about the canyon rim and the canyon floor. You will marvel at the quality of these structures and wonder why these people built these structures in such difficult terrain and how their children survived living on these steep cliffs!
The main site is located at Little Ruin Canyon and Square Tower Loop Trail is a 2 mile loop around the canyon rim visiting the largest site and most impressive structures. It takes about 2 hours to hike the loop but this is one of the most fascinating hikes in America as there a few places in the US where you can view structures that are almost eight hundred years old. There is a visitors center at the site and a film describing the location.
Hovenweep is located on the high Colorado Plateau and in the winter the conditions can (and did) change rapidly. The site is made up of six sites and the roads to some of the more remote sites are not paved. On the day we went they were slick and covered in red mud that even our four wheel drive truck had difficulty navigating. However, if the roads are frozen or dry the remote sites are just as impressive as the main site and we were able to climb among the ruins and wonder how life in this ancient place must have been. Hovenweep left us in awe of these ancient peoples and their ancient methods of hunting and farming on this beautiful yet desolate location.
Upon leaving Hovenweep we returned to Monticello through Colorado and as we state the weather can change quickly so be prepared for all contingencies and look at the forecast before you go!
Where to Eat
Doug’s Steak and BBQ
Hands down the best meal we had on our trip was at Doug’s Steak and BBQ in Monticello. We ate here on a snowy Sunday night and we were the only patrons in the restaurant but the staff was friendly and excited to serve us and the food was delicious. The atmosphere was fun and had that classic BBQ shack feel. We loved the Au Gratin potatoes and the combo meat platter. We highly recommend Doug’s as it is every bit as good with some of the top Kansas City BBQ smokehouses!
Peach Tree Juice Cafe
The Peace Tree Juice Café has that 60’s hippie vibe and has both American as well as a more healthy, veganish type fare to offer. We had a nice breakfast here on our last day and Melinda ordered several large cinnamon rolls to eat on our long drive home. They also had healthy lunch options for those who are looking for a lighter fare.
Day 4- Return to Real Life
Our plans for our final day were to stop by Natural Bridges National Monument, however, we woke to a snow storm and news that Highway 95 was closed! Although disappointing that we missed out on Natural Bridges we made lemons out of lemonade as we returned through beautiful Moab with it’s snow covered red rock which was an amazing sight in and of itself. That is the great thing about Utah, no matter where you go or what the weather it is beautiful!
Conclusion
Robert Frost in his famous poem “The Road Not Taken” concludes with the famous words, “Two roads diverged in a wood, and I- I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.” The roads of Southeast Utah are some of the least traveled roads in America, but when it comes to exploring the beauty of the west, taking these less traveled roads makes all the difference!
This is without a doubt one of our all time favorite couples road trips! The incredible isolation and beauty of this area added to the romance of the trip and the time spent together exploring these lands was priceless. The accommodations were wonderful, the history was unforgettable, and the beauty was beyond belief (and I’m not just talking Melinda here)! This trip is one that every couple will cherish!
